This is a representation of an M10 from the Normandy campaign in the summer and fall of 1944. It has the late style counterweights on the rear of the turret, called “Duckbills”, as opposed to the steel wedges that were used in early production, which in itself, was preceded by track cleats (grousers) hanging on the turret rear. The counterweights allowed a balance on the turret to turn the hand crank to traverse the turret. Too much weight on one end would bind the gears and you get no turn, no aim, no fire, no tank/crew left.
It was a delicate balance, what may have worked on flat ground may not work on a hill. The Duckbills could be made smaller and lighter than the wedges, because they protruded farther back on the hull, farther from the center of balance.
As stated in a previous post, this is the Academy kit, and is pretty much built out of the box. I added a few little things like the step up on the transmission cover and the welded rods between the armor plat gromets on the turret sides. The gromits, “things sticking out on the hull” were attachment points for additional armor to be bolted on. They never did produce them or send them overseas, so they weren’t used, but they made great hanging points for the grouser frames, bags, stowage and anything else you want to carry on the outside. When this vehicle became your home and you were it in all the time, there was precious little room on the inside, so most of the “luggage” was carried externally.
The base coat is on, there was two coats of yellow ochre oil paint filter. Next was some chipping using a sponge on the edges and protrusions. Then came some streaking grime all the way around.
Next is some chipping on the flat surfaces using a brush, another coat of grime to the areas that went a bit too light, then I will see what is left to do.
Next is some chipping on the flat surfaces using a brush, another coat of grime to the areas that went a bit too light, then I will see what is left to do.
Suspension and tracks need to be weathered and clumps of mud need to be added with pigments and pigment fixer. The wheels need a black wash to show faded rubber on the contact surface. I need to look through my stowage bin and figure out what is going to hang on the sides and rear.
A lot to do yet.
Added treat.
For those who look at post completion weathering as a complete mystery, have a look at this video from Youtube. Mig Jimenez, a renowned modeler and finishing master, has a two hour session on the most effective weathering techniques. You actually get to see him do it. I use this every now and again to get out of a jam, or figure out what to do next.
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